Myrsini – Nees Rizes 2023

Myrsini – Nees Rizes 2023 The name “Nees Rizes” (New Roots) comes straight from the heart. It reflects the Bourget family’s deep personal pledge to lay down their own foundations on the island of Paros, embracing the ancient roots of its viticulture to ground a new family legacy. The soul of this wine comes from a patchwork of different small plots scattered across Paros, with vine ages ranging between 50 and 150 years old. These vines are ungrafted*, anchored in history by their indigenous roots. Most of these plots benefit from a northern exposition, protecting the grapes from the fiercest heat and ensuring the wine retains freshness. The blend features two indigenous varieties: Mantilaria: The “wild child” of the Aegean, known for its deep color and thick skins. In this natural expression, it provides a vibrant, deep ruby hue and savory depth without harsh astringency. Vaftra: A rare local gem and historical “dye grape.” It adds aromatic mystery and wild complexity, enhancing the dark fruit profile.   In the glass the wine pours a deep ruby, veiled in a gentle haze. On the nose the aromatic profile is engaging and layered. It opens with a burst of blackberries and red cherries, accented by floral notes of violet. This evolves into notes of fig, prune, and dried blackberry. There is a distinct savory edge here, a rustic whisper of dried tobacco leaf and black olives, rounded out by a crack of black pepper. The palate is smooth. At 12.5% alcohol, it sits comfortably with a medium body. The northern exposition of the vineyards has preserved a sense of balance; the acidity remains soft and the tannins are gentle, with flavour intensity that persists with dark fruit and savory spice. This is a wine defined by good balance. It manages to be complex, juggling fresh fruit, dried fruit and savory richness – remaining easy to drink while preserving a wild edge. *The Mystery of Ungrafted Vines The True Roots The True Roots: The Mystery of Ungrafted Vines In the modern world of wine, finding a vine growing on its own, original roots is like discovering a living dinosaur. It is a rarity that connects us directly to the ancient history of winemaking. When we talk about the “old, ungrafted vines” of wines like Nees Rizes from Paros, we aren’t just talking about age. We are talking about a biological miracle that survived the greatest plague in wine history. The Great Plague: Phylloxera To understand the value of an ungrafted vine, we have to look back to the late 19th century. During this time, a microscopic aphid called Phylloxera traveled from North America to Europe on botanical specimens. While American vines had evolved over thousands of years to be immune to this louse, the European vine species (Vitis vinifera) had no natural defense. The result was devastating. Phylloxera attacked the roots, sucking the life out of the plants. Within a few decades, nearly all the vineyards in Europe were wiped out. The wine industry faced total extinction. The Solution: The Graft To save European wine, viticulturists came up with an ingenious, Frankenstein-like solution: Grafting. They took the wood of European varieties (which produced the delicious fruit) and fused it onto the rootstocks of American vines (which were immune to the bug). Today, roughly 99% of all wine in the world comes from these grafted vines. The top of the plant is European, but the “engine” underground is American. The Miracle of Paros So, how did the vines of Myrsini in Paros survive? Phylloxera has one weakness: Sand. The structure of sandy soil makes it impossible for the louse to tunnel and reproduce. Because Paros is blessed with loose, sandy, granite-rich soils, the plague never took hold in certain plots. The Last Strongholds of Europe While Paros is a shining example, it belongs to a small, elite club of European regions where the louse could not conquer the land. Usually, these places are protected by natural barriers like sand, volcanic ash, or extreme isolation. Here are a few other famous sanctuaries where European vines still grow on their own roots: Serbia (The Sands of Subotica & Deliblato): In the north of Serbia (Subotica-Horgoš) and the east (Deliblato), there exist vast stretches of sandy terrain often referred to as the “European Sahara.” These deep sands provided a natural fortress against Phylloxera, allowing indigenous Balkan varieties—most notably Kadarka—to survive on their original roots, preserving the authentic taste of the region’s history. Santorini, Greece: Just south of Paros, Santorini’s soil is composed of volcanic ash and pumice. It is so devoid of organic matter and clay that Phylloxera cannot survive. Here, the vines are woven into basket shapes (kouloura) to protect them from the wind. Colares, Portugal: Located on the Atlantic coast near Lisbon, this is one of the world’s most dramatic wine regions. The vines (Ramisco) are planted in deep sand dunes. To reach the clay below, the roots must dig down several meters, safely insulated by the sand that kills the pest. The Canary Islands, Spain: Isolation played a key role here. Being an archipelago in the Atlantic with volcanic soils (especially Tenerife and Lanzarote), these islands were never reached by the plague. They are home to some of the oldest heritage vines in the world. Mosel Valley, Germany: While much of Germany was affected, certain steep, slate-heavy slopes in the Mosel offered no hospitality to Phylloxera. Some Riesling vines here are over 100 years old, clinging to the cliffs on their original roots. The Taste of “Own-Roots” Why does this matter for the wine in your glass? While scientifically debated, winemakers and enthusiasts argue that ungrafted vines offer a different sensory experience: Purity of Flavor: Without the filter of a foreign rootstock, there is a direct, uninterrupted “conversation” between the soil and the grape. Many believe this leads to a purer expression of terroir. Texture & Tension: Wines from ungrafted vines often possess a unique energy or “nervousness” on the palate—a texture that is distinct from their grafted counterparts. Self-Regulation: Especially when combined with extreme age (50–150 years), these vines have established a perfect equilibrium with their environment. They don’t need irrigation; their deep roots hunt for water and minerals far below the surface, resulting in lower yields but significantly higher concentration. When you drink wine like Nees Rizes, you are tasting history. You are tasting the grape exactly as nature intended it, uncompromised and unbroken. FOOD PAIRING Omnivore Pairing Since the wine is low in tannin, low in acidity, but high in savory depth (black olives, tobacco) and dried fruit notes (fig, prune), it pairs best with dishes that are earthy, savory, or slightly sweet, rather than overly fatty or acidic foods. Starters Cycladic Charcuterie Board: Thinly sliced Louza (cured pork loin typical of the Cyclades) and fennel salami. The salty, cured fat connects perfectly with the wine’s savory “cured meat” aromas. Grilled Octopus with Fava: The soft tannins of the wine allow it to pair with seafood. The earthiness of the fava bean purée matches the wine’s rustic roots, while the octopus highlights the saline/island character. Beef Carpaccio with Truffle Oil: The earthy, funky notes of truffle amplify the “forest floor” and “tobacco leaf” notes in the wine, while the raw meat texture matches the wine’s soft mouthfeel. Main Courses Rabbit Stifado (Greek Stew): This is the ultimate pairing. The stew uses sweet onions, cinnamon, and cloves, which bridge beautifully with the wine’s notes of fig and prune, while the lean game meat doesn’t overpower the delicate body. Pork Tenderloin with Fig & Balsamic Glaze: A direct flavor bridge. The glaze mirrors the fruit development in the wine, while the pork is light enough for a 12.5% alcohol red. Classic Moussaka: The layers of potato, eggplant, and ground meat offer a savory, umami-rich experience that complements the wine’s “black olive” and herbal notes without needing heavy tannins to cut through fat. Desserts Dark Chocolate Tart with Sea Salt: The bitterness of dark chocolate and the flake of salt highlight the fruit in the wine while suppressing any lingering bitterness. Roasted Figs with Honey and Thyme: A simple, rustic dessert that mirrors the wine’s own aromatic profile. Blackberry Panna Cotta: Highlights the primary fresh fruit notes (blackberry/cherry) found in the opening of the wine. Cheeses Graviera (Aged): A nutty, hard sheep’s cheese that mimics the savory depth of the wine. Ladotyri Mytilinis: A distinct cheese preserved in olive oil; the texture pairs well with the wine’s “oily” or smooth mouthfeel. Manouri: A semi-soft, creamy fresh cheese. Its mildness won’t fight the wine’s low acidity. Vegetarian Pairing Since the wine is low in tannin, low in acidity, but high in savory depth (black olives, tobacco) and dried fruit notes (fig, prune), it pairs best with dishes that are earthy, savory, or slightly sweet, rather than overly fatty or acidic foods. Starters Dolmades (Stuffed Vine Leaves): The herbal, leafy flavor of the vine leaves creates a beautiful “green” bridge to the wine’s dried tobacco leaf note. Black Olive & Fig Tapenade on Sourdough: This starter effectively puts the wine’s exact flavor profile on a plate. It emphasizes the savory vs. sweet contrast. Beetroot Carpaccio with Walnuts: The deep earthiness of beets connects with the “old vine” depth, while walnuts add a textural crunch. Main Courses Stuffed Eggplant: Eggplant is the “meat” of the vegetarian world. Slow-cooked with onions, tomatoes, and olive oil, it becomes rich and meltingly soft—matching the wine’s low tannins and savory richness perfectly. Wild Mushroom Risotto with Thyme: Mushrooms are packed with umami. A creamy risotto brings out the savory, “forest floor” qualities of the wine without overwhelming its medium body. Lentil Stew with Sun-Dried Tomatoes: An earthy, rustic dish that mirrors the humble, grounded nature of the wine. The sun-dried tomatoes offer a tangy sweetness that lifts the fruit in the glass. Desserts Poached Pears in Red Wine & Spices: The baking spices (cinnamon/clove) used in poaching will highlight the tertiary notes in the wine. Greek Yogurt with Sour Cherry Spoon Sweet: The acidity of the sour cherry provides a refreshing contrast to the “hazy” and soft nature of the wine. Karydopita (Walnut Cake): A spiced, syrup-soaked walnut cake that pairs lovely with the dried fruit notes (prune/fig) of the wine. Cheeses Baked Feta with Honey & Sesame: The saltiness of the cheese contrasts with the honey, mirroring the savory/sweet balance of the wine. Kasseri: A mild, buttery, semi-hard cheese that is gentle enough not to strip the wine of its fruit. Aged Gouda: The crunchy salt crystals and caramel notes in an aged Gouda pair wonderfully with the dried fig aromas.